I’ve mentioned elsewhere on the site that I’m fond of the 1911. Here’s a recent piece for the 5” government model with the tiny GI battle sights. The holster body is Show Brown, with a black border and black hand stitching. It is lined with pigskin and features black throat binding, a Mexican loop with a rather bold concho, and a toe plug. It’s a perfect fit for the small front sights, but a little grippy on 1911 variants with taller sights. In my view, this is one of the more graceful holsters I’ve had the pleasure to make. Regarding the throat binding, as nice as it looks, I am finding that it works better on revolvers than on semi-auto pistols, as the front ledge of the ejection port can catch even the thinnest binding. I’ve not seen any issues with revolvers.

I recently had occasion to make several variations on this pattern for the Colt New Frontier 4 3/8” model with target sights. I had to work from photos, so this was the first attempt. It easily fits the Ruger Wrangler and Single Six with traditional sights and the Heritage Rough Rider. For the “final” piece I cut down the throat a little for the rear sight, shortened the toe slightly for the barrel length, and opened the toe a tiny bit for the larger front sight. This holster is shown with a Ruger Wrangler. The color is an antiqued Spanish brown fade. It features an oiled leather binding strip at the throat, dark brown pigskin lining, a faux Mexican loop, and a concho that complements the diamond stamping.

I was asked recently to make a proper holster for a Ruger Old Army .44 cap and ball revolver.  I went to my pattern library and found one claiming to be the right one.  I probably should have been suspicious when it also claimed to fit the 1860 army Colt.  The Ruger is massive, has a top strap, and just feels huge.  Unsurprisingly, it was too big for the pattern.  I revised accordingly and wound up with a nice home for the Ruger.  The holster shown here is the one I made with that first pattern.  It’s a modified open-toe El Dorado, lined with pigskin, tooled with a basketweave, and sporting an enormous 1881 silver dollar concho on the loop strap to contrast the USMC black dye.  I’ve included a hammer loop on this holster but no leg ties.

This project was made for the 3.7” Hellcat Pro. I worked from photos, and have yet to test the fit on a real live Hellcat, so I display it here with a M&P Shield EZ, the profile of which is a close match. The color is an antiqued fade application of an accidental brown mixture that I developed by blending five years of experimental mixes in one container. In that regard, I consider it to be unique, though it is pretty close to Spanish brown. It is stamped with a dragon scale stamp and lined with dark brown pigskin.

One of the things I like about the full-size 1911 is how well it adapts to a variety of styles and patterns. This one features floral carving with a modified Mexican loop securing the holster to a skirt, which serves as the belt loop. Though more common with 19th century revolvers, the style works on the trusty 1911 as well. I’ve used a russet dye on this one, with natural stitching for contrast. The toe is closed.

I had been wanting to try this tooling technique for some time as it lends itself to either a western or a more contemporary style.  This is fitted to a Heritage 6.5" .22 single action revolver, in fact, the same one used as a stand-in in the nearby photo of the Ruger Single Six holster.  The discerning will note that this holster is for a southpaw, and features the typical western leg ties and hammer loop.  I used a brown stain and a tan thread for a little contrast.  Stitching is by hand.

I’ve been doing a little research and have found inspiration in a wonderful book by Richard Rattenbury. This rig is based on a Mexican Loop style prevalent in the late 19th century and fits the 1873 single action army Colt. The buckle is nickel plated with clipped corners and the lining is pig skin with the suede side out. The belt is a little over 2.5” wide with two keepers, one for the belt and one for the billet. The buckle and billet ends are stitched and riveted. Holster and belt are dyed dark brown

I recently had an opportunity to build a holster for a Glock 17. I’d developed this pattern a few months back, but sold the holster before I got a photo. This one is a mahogany basket stamp with natural stitching, a dark brown lining, and a snap strap. It is canted slightly forward, and the toe is open. This pattern is one that I like for the G17/47, and it appears in another example nearby with different tooling.

I've been meaning to do a revolver holster with cartridge loops for some time and the opportunity finally arrived with this one, built for a 6.5" .22 LR revolver. The loop strap provided a platform for the .22 cal. loops, with no room to spare. The throat binding is black pigskin, and the stitching is black to match the leather. I used a border stamp on the holster, a slightly smaller version of the same stamp on the loop strap, and a teeny version of the same stamp on the bullet loops themselves.

When I first started working with leather, I wanted to try out a pattern for the 1860 army Colt.  In my opinion, the army and navy Colts are among the most graceful handguns ever made. The confederate model is in Spanish brown and the federal model is USMC black.  The insignia were hand-carved, rather than embossed. In that regard, and others, this pair doesn’t hold up to the specs of serious re-enactors, but they’re handsome holsters for one of my favorite guns.

Finally figured out a reasonable way to photograph a cartridge belt in a square format. This is a complete rig for the 4.75” SAA. Cartridge belt has twenty loops and is lined with thin pigskin. Holster has appeared alone in the past and the color of the belt is not a perfect match. Still have not put a hammer loop on this holster, but the leg tie is present.

I had been itching to do an inlay of some sort and when I found a small stingray hide I took it as a sign. I use a pattern that I’ve used before and found quite versatile. I finished it with USMC black dye and lined it with black pigskin, and though I think it’s aesthetically pleasing, I did not enjoy working with the stingray skin. Seems that nature endowed the stingray with a hide armored with small glass beads. It’s an interesting texture, but hard on the tools.

My wife thinks this is a "dress" holster, as in, Sunday-go-to-meetin'.  While I doubt that guns were common in 19th century church services, I agree that it has a formal and classic look to it, and it would go well with a brown suit.  It features a folded skirt and a functional buckled strap.  The tooling is minimal, only a scribed outline.  The color is a medium brown stain.  I like this holster for its simplicity and for its proportions.  I used a snap to secure the strap, though a leather or metal keeper would be simpler and just as effective.

This was commissioned some time ago and I only recently thought to add it to the gallery. The gun is a 3.5” derringer and the customer wanted a safety strap and easy access to a couple of extra rounds. The color is either dark brown or Spanish brown, with an antique finish. The stamping is a random stipple that I’ve used a few times to provide texture without a pattern. The holster is canted slightly forward and the hammer is fully shielded by leather.

As I've stated elsewhere in this site, the thing I like most about the 5” 1911 is that it allows for a variety of graceful holster patterns. This is one of my favorites, and I’ve used it several times with different details, colors, textures, and ornamentation. This piece is an inlay of faux alligator embossed leather, installed in a border of stained veg-tan cowhide. I used a medium application of Briar Brown stain to complement the dark brown inlay, and contrasted it with buff-colored stitching. The holster is lined with veg-tan cowhide to give it a little more heft and stiffness, which I’ve enhanced further with a couple of additional layers of leather stitched into the main seam.

From an old pattern for the Ruger Single Six, in this case the 6.5" model.  Ample room for contemporary front and rear sights.  The gun in the photo is a Heritage 6.5" revolver and it sits a little loose.  Holster features a floral carving and complementary stitching.  Finished version could/would have a leg-tie and hammer loop.  No edging or stamping, antique stain in a medium brown.  Belt loop is a stitched fold-over.  This one has an open toe.  Sufficient room to close the toe without changing the pattern.  Very similar to 1851 carved holster shown nearby, but without skirt.

For this holster I added a little more girth to accommodate a fully configured revolver, shortened the depth very slightly, and added a little length to the belt loop so it would hang a little lower.  The gun sits a little lower in the holster, and fits it well, without a wet-fit.  The holster is stamped with a favorite basket weave and stained mahogany.  I dyed the inside to minimize contrast between the outside and the inside.  Final finish was a satin top coat.

Here’s the more refined version of the three-piece Mk III holster displayed elsewhere in the gallery. In all particulars except for coloring and finish, this piece is identical to its more rustic brother. I suppose one is for work and the other is for going out in polite company. Though I’m not yet sure about the Mk IV, this pattern fits the earlier Mk I and Mk II Rugers, and is very easily adapted to the longer and heavier-barreled Target models.

This holster fits the 5.5" SAA revolver and employs a double Mexican loop to secure the skirt, which serves as the belt loop. I've applied a dark brown dye and used dark brown stitching to keep it low key. The diamond stamping provides a texture that contrasts with the smooth loops.

Some holsters are just made to be functional, and strangely enough, they are sometimes the most fun to make. This holster uses a pattern that I’ve worked with a couple of times for the P226, but it features minimal tooling, no ornamentation, no lining, and minimal finish work. I made it from a scrap of Herman Oak, and added a safety strap left over from another job that used saddle skirting. The finish is three or four heavy applications of walnut oil. I sanded the main seam, and burnished that, and the other edges, a little, with a piece of canvas, like they did in the old days. The overall finish is rustic and rugged.

Here’s another full-size 1911, made from a pattern in an old Tandy holster pattern book. It’s really more of a bucket, but it’s a clean design, and it works well with a barrel-heavy pistol like the 1911. This one is a briar brown stain/antique applied to a dragon scale stamp. The stitching is “natural” (off white), about five per inch. I’ve lined it with maple pig skin. The original pattern included a toe plug, and so have I. With soft lining I’ve noticed that a low, rounded front sight, like the original 1911 battle sight, works better. Taller sights with a sharp profile can dig into the lining a little and impede the draw.

I’ve displayed a few holsters for the shorter-barrel version of the SAA, but only recently had occasion to make a home for the 5.5” inch version. This one features a dark (really dark) brown stain with minimal tooling, a modified Mexican loop, my favorite star and “bob-wahr” concho, a small toe plug, and a narrow binding at the top of the throat.

Here's another variation on a familiar pattern. This holster is a dark Spanish brown fade with a medium brown antique finish over a diamond stamp, with contrasting natural stitching. The throat binding is a light pigskin. I've used a wider loop strap than in a similar, earlier piece, and installed a complementary oval concho.

I went to a gun show a week ago and learned that there are far more left-handers in the general population than I had imagined. I now have a list of projects that will be made for southpaws. This SAA is among the first of them. I used a simple pattern with a Mexican loop, maple pig skin lining, and folded the lining over the throat and stitched it down. I added a stitched border to the Mexican loop. The color is a heavy application of medium brown dye, with natural thread for contrast.

A friend came across this little H&R revolver in a hot, damp storage shed. After some thorough cleanup we decided a simple holster would be in order. This one features an unadorned Mexican loop and a briar brown stain finish with natural stitching. Tooling is limited to a single scribed line at the throat. The toe is closed (to keep yellow jackets out of the bore), and I added a hammer loop to keep the H&R secure in its new home.

I made this piece for the Glock 17 for an upcoming gun show. It is solid black, with black stitching, is lined with black pigskin, and has a simple border stamp and a snap strap. It is canted forward about fifteen degrees. I wet-formed this holster, moderately. A friend informed me that Glock has updated the G17 with the G47 designation. Not sure what that’s about, but both models fit this holster.

Like a similar holster that I made for a gunbelt last year, this holster for the 5.5” Colt SAA is inspired by the cover photo on Richard Rattenbury’s book on late 19th century gunleather. It features a carved floral pattern and a Mexican loop with a skirt and a toe plug. The color is russet.

The fourth in this series was a combination of refinements, if such exists, using a buckled strap to secure the folded belt loop. The strap is riveted to the belt loop outside the holster, and the nickel buckle, of course, is also outside. This example is dyed black with a top finish of black stain. It also uses a hammer loop. The fit is identical to the other three in this series. The viewer may note that I occasionally resort to more dramatic photography and this long lens, low angle shot is a perfect example. I suppose all holsters become more dramatic the closer you get to the muzzle.

This is an example of an antique-stained Western-style holster, with a skirt.  It is laced rather than stitched.  The holster and strap are carved with a floral design, the skirt is stamped around the border, and a hammer loop and latigo ties are included.  This one fits the 1851 Navy Colt and is not lined.  This is an original design.  I've never been especially pleased with the proportions of the "slim jim" holsters for the long-barreled Colts. The holster is a little wider than it needs to be, and the skirt adds a little additional width, so it looks more like there's a gun inside than a knife or an ice pick.  As with all the examples I've seen for these pistols, the holster is designed to seat the gun with the trigger guard mostly exposed.  The toe is open to permit the inevitable debris of black powder shooting to fall out.

I needed to use an old piece of leather that was a little thinner than I've been working with lately, so I decided to add a little  reinforcement in a couple of key areas.  In this case the reinforcement is at the top and around back on the belt loop.  The extra layer is equivalent to a half holster wrapped around a full holster and offered an opportunity to contrast the stitching with the leather.  The piece is lined with thin pigskin suede, features a double thickness welt, basket weave stamping and, a first for me, a stamped strap.  Hand stitched, as always.  The black dye is finished with a satin top coating.

This is my Ruger adaptation of a three-piece design mentioned elsewhere on the site. It came about because I had some leather scraps I wanted to use, but none of the pieces was wide enough for a full holster. This was the prototype, hence the rough finish. The leather was some very old saddle skirting and it took a plain neatsfoot oil finish quite nicely. I suppose one might call this a “field” holster. The holster is canted, and the Mexican loop/snap is more a matter of style than function, as the belt loop is stitched in place. I made a couple of variations for the Mk III Standard and for the Mk II Target. A more finished, black version appears elsewhere in the gallery.

This holster fits the 5" 1911.  It is oil finished and features no carving or ornamentation.  I have an example with the "US" insignia on the flap, but it was a little rough, so I'll try it again another day.  This one has the standard belt loop, but no leg straps.  It hangs low enough that I think the straps would be helpful.  The pattern is commercially available, and includes a variation for the "cavalry" or tanker version with various straps and swivels.  The plain oil finish on this one is a nice mellow brown and the leather is supple.  Because of the oil, I did not wet fit this holster, but the draw is nevertheless clean and smooth.  The toe is closed on this example, with holes for debris and perhaps muddy water to drain out.  Note the Sam Brown post to fasten the flap.

I had completed a couple of recent holsters for the Bersa and displayed them in the gallery but never felt they were quite right for what was essentially a classic 1930s European handgun design. Tooling and contrasting stitching just seemed too ornate, so I went with basic black, untooled. This holster is lined and I’ve reinforced the main seam with a double cap nickel plated rivet to complement the snap on the safety strap. I’ve wet formed the holster to conform gently with the trigger guard and ejection port, and added a shallow tunnel to provide an interior groove for the front sight. This one rides on the belt. Looking to develop a shoulder suitable shoulder rig.

This third example of the 4” medium frame was made specifically for a Smith & Wesson Model 64 and fits it perfectly without wet forming. The color is a deep brown and the holster features floral carving and contrasting white stitching. I’ve oiled the holster inside and out and applied a couple of treatments with a wax/oil leather top finish and a light buffing with a soft cloth. This one also uses a hammer loop.

This was one of several for full-size 1911s. The finish on this is a simple application of neatsfoot oil. The edges are unburnished. The design “innovation” was a three-piece holster body, a necessity because the widest leather available was only 4” wide. The strip along the fold creates a tunnel for the front sight, in addition to adding a design element. This was the prototype. I made subsequent versions a little narrower to conform to the sleek profile of the 1911 pistol and also adapted it to the Ruger Mk III.

This holster was made for an heirloom Colt .41 made in 1905 and sold through the Sears catalog. It came with a pigskin shoulder holster. I used the lower portion of the original holster for the pattern and applied a diamond stamp and russet dye. The proportions of the revolver seemed to lend themselves readily to a graceful, simple design.

I made this one for the P238 at the end of a series last summer.  I’ve contoured the pocket so the safety strap is probably not necessary.  It’s stamped with a small basketweave and stained briar brown antique.  This one has a belt loop, but I did a couple in the series with belt clips.  There were also a pair of IWB pieces with clips.  This holster would fit the Kimber micro as well.

This is a vintage style closed toe holster for the full-size 1911 .45 acp pistol. It features floral carving, lining, and an antique finish. I am working on a similar design with a cross strap securing the holster to a skirt. It will either join or replace this photo in the gallery. The color is English Bridle (brown).

I think I’ve mentioned elsewhere that I like the old medium frame .38 special revolvers that were popular in the middle of the last century. I had a recent opportunity to refine one of my earliest patterns and made four examples with different finishes. The one shown here is the cleanest of the three with no tooling and black stitching on a black finish. The toe is closed and I’ve added a welt on the seam to add a little space inside. The fit is excellent for the 4” S&W, Colt, or Taurus with standard fixed sights. The inquiry that led to these projects wanted to use the traditional hammer loop rather than a snap strap. After oiling I applied a light coat of neutral shoe polish and a brush finish.

This is a pretty standard holster for what was once a pretty standard sidearm, the .38 special revolver.  This one is in black and I had to use shoe polish to get it to the glossy state shown.  The decorative pattern is a modest curved cross hatch and, frankly, is a little busy in the upper left, just below the trigger guard.  Future models will have a little less going on there.  This Taurus 82 has fixed sights, so the sights sit inside the leather.  For more elaborate rear sights I'd lower the leather at the fold and let the sights sit on top.  This was my second effort on this particular gun and the first one taught me that a hammer strap would be a good idea.  The draw is very smooth.

Had a chance to work on a proper holster for a Heritage Roughrider recently and kind of went overboard.  This short-barreled model of the Roughrider is a downsized replica of the 5.5" single action army Colt of the late 19th century.  This was my first effort, and was based on a pattern that nicely fit a similar gun that was missing the ejector rod housing.  Oops.  It was a little snug, so I wet-fitted it and it turned out to be a very fine fit with a smooth draw.  The carving is a simple crossed line pattern, stained saddle tan.  I've been using welts on all my recent work.  The trigger guard sits right on top.  I finished this one with a satin top coat.  I have not installed leg ties and hammer loops on any of the three holsters I made for this gun.  At the least, the hammer loop would be required for safety.

This holster fits the standard Smith and Wesson, Colt, Taurus, and similar medium frame .38 special revolvers and closely emulates a pretty much standard pattern from the middle of the 20th Century.  I’ve applied a basketweave stamping and left the flap clean.  The toe is closed.  This example uses an antique brass snap but a similar recent piece uses the Sam Browne stud to secure the flap.  I’ve applied a dark brown antique to feature the stamping.  The color is golden brown.  I favor the 4” models, but this could be easily adapted to fit the longer barrel lengths.

Those who have had the patience and strength of character to read through the intro and other text on this site will have noticed, perhaps, a conspicuous omission. As I extolled the virtues of the 1860 army Colt and the .45 acp, I seemed to have overlooked another Colt creation of merit, which is to say, the 1873 single action army revolver.

It was inevitable that my interests would lead me eventually to examine the SAA and eventually to want to create a holster for it. Which is exactly what happened.

This left-handed holster is in black oil dye, tooled with a basketweave.  The thread is black to avoid drawing attention to it (so I draw your attention to it, go figure), and instead of the traditional western hammer loop, I have used a small hammer strap that functions much like the thumb snap on contemporary holsters. 

Didn't think I would ever do one of these but I keep seeing them on the belts of law enforcement folks and thought I'd give it a try.  This one is dyed USMC black and tooled a little with a basket weave and star.  It is wet fitted to the 1911, rides close, draws well, and with those two belt loops is very secure.

Had an email from a customer a couple of weeks back inquiring about a “driving holster”. I’d never heard of it and thought it was related to golf. I was wrong, of course, and my research revealed that a holster of that type is intended for wearing while driving a car. The examples I found were essentially a cross draw holster carried horizontally or nearly so and secured to the belt with a wrap-around strap rather than a belt loop. This prototype fits the SIG P238 and is canted downward about 15 degrees. It does not have a safety strap to secure the weapon, but a thumb-snap seems to be the best/quickest device to serve that purpose. The holster features a traditional basket weave stamp, black oil dye, and a contrasting saddle stitched thread.

This is an original design, an attempt at a Western aesthetic with a diagonal band and border tooling only.  The band could accommodate initials, if desired.  It is saddle stitched, open-toed, stained in a dark brown, and unlined.  It is fitted to a full-size 1911 with standard GI sights.  The strap is positioned to fit under a cocked hammer, or over an uncocked hammer.

This would be my first "original" design.  It is fitted to the SIG P226.  It features a stamped tri-weave pattern, is stained in a deep mahogany, and wet-fitted to the pistol.  The main difference between this one and the first kit I assembled is the rear sight sits at the top of the fold,  The fit is snug, the draw is smooth, and the strap is necessary to keep the pistol in the holster should I happen to find myself upside down.

A custom holster for a Colt Gold Cup National Match .45 acp, 5” 1911.  The gun was handed down by a retired law enforcement officer to his son, who wanted a proper holster for a family heirloom.  We began with a fairly traditional (to LEO at least) basket-weave stamp, a thin veg-tanned suede pig skin liner, and a simple safety strap that will secure the weapon cocked or uncocked.  The belt loop is folded over and canted at 15 degrees so the pistol barrel is pointed rearward slightly.  The holster is dyed USMC black, and the hardware is nickel finish, also traditional for law enforcement.  I’ve used the pattern before, without the folded belt loop, and added a welt on the seam this time to counter the addition of the lining.  The holster is stiff and secure.  The gun sits a little bit high (rear sights are not resting on the leather), due to a slightly modified cut at the trigger guard, where the grip rests.  The safety strap is riveted in place in front of the belt loop, and the belt loop will accommodate a 1.5” belt.  The gun rides high, the fit is snug, but this one is not intended for a fast draw.

I’ve shared unkind opinions elsewhere in this site regarding the “California” and “Slim Jim” style of holsters that were popular in the mid-19th century. Yet here I am with my own attempt. This one has a fairly ornate border, a closed toe, but otherwise minimal ornamentation. I oiled it inside and out with a locally produced pecan oil to give it a little color. I expect it will darken with age and use.

This pattern will also fit the Heritage 6.5” .22 LR models, and the navy Colt (if you don’t mind the muzzle peeking out). The color is russet, and I used a diamond stamp, thin leather binding on the throat, and natural stitching. It is unlined, and the toe is open.

I call this one my “simple” 1911 pattern because, well, it’s simple. This left-handed example is dyed a chocolate brown, and stamped with a clean diamond stamp. It’s a perfect fit without the need for wet-forming, and leaves enough room in the toe to insert a toe plug, if desired. This one does not have a safety strap, though that is an easy addition.

This is a slightly over-sized pattern adapted for the S&W EZ. It was originally cut for an EZ fitted with a laser, but was too tight. I’m loathe to waste anything, so I modified the welt on the main seam to fit the same model without the laser. The toe is a little wider than necessary, but the trigger guard seats properly for a clean grip. It’s stained with a briar brown stain and features no tooling other than a beveled border. I often oil the finished holster as a final step, and that tends to darken the stain or dye a little bit, as it did in this case.

This holster is a classic basket stamped black with black polyester stitching. The pattern is perfectly suited to the Smith and Wesson EZ and includes a double-wide welt and an open toe. It is canted 15 degrees forward, as are nearly all my compact holsters these days.

Here is another 1911. This one has a skirt and is canted slightly. I’ve used a basketweave stamp on the holster and it is secured to the skirt by the diagonal strap, which I’ve left without tooling for contrast, except for my maker’s mark and an edge line. The safety strap will fit the weapon cocked or uncocked and is secured with a brass Sam Browne stud. I’ve left the edges unfinished here. Color is a light application of English Bridle. It would darken with oil or a final topcoat, or for that matter, with age and use.

This holster was based on a vintage Smith & Wesson style that was contemporaneous with the famous .38 special revolvers of the early- to mid-20th Century. I narrowed the open toe to conform more closely with the slim barrel, but the straps, snaps and belt loop were left pretty much intact. The edge finishing on this is minimal, as was the case on the original. I believe the color is a “medium” brown dye that tends to run redder and darker than one would expect.

Western style for the 1860 Army Colt.  The holster and skirt are a single piece of leather folded over to form the belt loop and add dimension to the holster.  The strap across the holster secures it to the skirt and the fold over suspends the holster close in.  The hammer loop and leg-tie latigos are part of the necessary functionality of the Western style.  This holster is colored with a tan antique stain that reveals the grain of the leather as well as the modest edge tooling and diamond carving.  Hand stitched using a saddle stitch.

This is a second example of the 4” medium frame .38 special. I’ve used a random stipple tooling pattern for texture, and a plain border. Stitching is black on black, with a welt on the seam. The belt loop on this, as on the other two, is folded and stitched for a 2” belt. There are no metal rivets or snaps in three of the four in this series, and again, this example has the hammer loop instead of a safety snap strap.

Once again returning to my favorite 1911 pattern, this time for the left-hander. This holster is finished in black with black stitching and features a traditional basket stamp, a Mexican loop-type strap, a modest concho, and a thin leather binding on the throat of the holster. It is canted slightly forward.

This holster in also a modified Mexican loop in dark brown, with natural stitching. This is another example of a slightly wider strap, which seems to work well on the full-size 1911. The loop strap has cured to a lighter tone than the holster, though both were dyed at the same time. I'm likely to go back and apply more dye to the strap. Both the holster and the strap feature border stamping only. My wife suggested that I use the compass concho, so naturally, I complied.

This holster is about as simple as you can make it. No tooling, no border, no special finish, no ornamentation. I applied light brown dye and built up the tone to a medium brown. The stitching is white, and is a little bit heavier than the nylon I usually use.

This is a single Mexican loop with a Spanish brown fade finish, natural stitching, and a longhorn concho. The purpose of the Mexican loop is to secure the holster skirt as a belt loop without hardware. It generally works well both functionally and aesthetically. I modified a store-bought pattern for this holster and I'm not sure I like the result, as I think I cut the loop a about a half-inch too low. We learn from our mistakes, and, who knows, I may find a customer who thinks this is the best thing I've ever done.

The proportions of the Buckmark required a slender, elegant holster. A thick welt made it possible to slim the profile a little bit more than normal. The main seam is about 5/8" thick, which stiffened the pocket considerably. I've used a thin pigskin lining and a closed toe, which added an inch or so to the overall length. The holster is formed to a perfect fit and secured with a strap. I've left the strap open in the photo to reveal the graceful curve from the trigger guard to the muzzle.